Crawl Space Repair & Encapsulation

Cat Pee Smell In The Crawl Space

2018-03-20T08:07:00-05:00

The cause of the odor

So lately there has been a huge movement to confuse homeowners and professionals alike as to what actually causes this cat pee smell that about 5% of encapsulated crawl spaces get.

I don’t know why, but self identified “Experts” have blamed this cat pee smell on everything from reinforced plastic to the poor hygiene of a homeowners cat. We have seen online video’s from “nina” explaining how reinforced vapor barrier is “glued” together and when that glue gets wet it falls apart and then the string in the middle gets wet and smells like cat pee. Personally, I have never experienced making contact with any kind of string that smells like cat pee when it gets wet. This company’s ideas are clearly born from the purest form of ignorance, lacking the knowledge but claiming to be an expert anyway. After all they have some “kung fu plastic” they bought from the home improvement store to sell you, without the reinforcement that smells like cat pee of course.

The REAL Cause

In the videos we have posted online about this problem, we have identified the odor originates from the decomposition of plant material in the ground under the home. We also identified the elevated moisture levels in the ground, post encapsulation, plays a part in the cat pee smell complaint. We have continued to collect data on the conditions that surround this cat pee smell complaint, but have not been able to draw any conclusions....until now.

I don’t want to repeat the information that we have already posted so you can find it here- Crawl Space Odor.

Cat pee smells like ammonia, mostly because cat pee often has ammonia in it. Nearly everyone can identify what a claim of “cat pee smell” would smell like and ammonia is the common denominator. Ammonia is made up of Nitrogen and Hydrogen, NH3. When a plant breaks down in the soil, the bacteria decomposes the plant back into minerals other plants can use. If you look at the life cycle of Nitrogen you will see how ammonia NH3 (ammonium NH4) plays a role. (Info graphic courtesy of Wikipedia.org)

So what is the difference between ammonia and ammonium? The simple answer is pH. Higher pH levels in the soil support ammonia, cat pee smell and lower pH in the soil support a less toxic ammonium. Ammonia is one part nitrogen and 3 parts hydrogen, NH3. Ammonium is one part nitrogen and 4 parts hydrogen. Here is a great YouTube video explaining the relationship between ammonia and ammonium-

As you can see from this video, the relationship between the more toxic and cat pee smelling ammonia and the less toxic ammonium is a matter of pH balancing.

How To Prevent The Cat Pee Smell...

As a prevention to this bad cat pee smell showing up in your new encapsulated crawl space you will need to do one of two things; test and pH balance the soil as needed prior to encapsulating or install a soil gas mitigation system that will remove the ammonia smell (cat pee) from your crawl space once it arrives.

The pH scale is from 0-14 with 7 being neutral. Ammonia lives around 11 on the pH scale. The key is to get your soil pH as close to 7 as you can to prevent/eliminate this cat pee smell.

This cat pee smell does not come from polyester string, nor does it come from any of our products. The level of ammonia in the soil can permeate polyethylene and make the plastic smell as bad as the crawl space....but that is not the source

Crawl Space Encapsulation® and Your Home

2015-08-17T22:15:00-05:00

Encapsulation and the impact on your home.

The negative impact an open crawl space has on a home extends from comfort to energy waste. The research is in, the impact of indoor air pollution, costly structure repairs and the strain on the heating and cooling system caused by the crawl space environment has more home owners looking to enclose their crawl space as an all in one solution. Let us explore how is this done and how much should it cost.

The open crawl space environment

The crawl space environment is naturally harsh and unfriendly to the home above it. Generally the floor is lower in the crawl space than the outside yard causing water to settle and allowing the moisture levels to rise beyond ideal. This standing water attracts mice, termites and snakes looking for a meal into the space. Termite damage in the US is estimated at 600,000 homes and $5 Billion. If that is not bad enough the high moisture levels allow mold, mildew and fungus to germinate on the homes wood structure. A rousing case of dry rot can single handedly steal the funds set aside for your next vacation. Often, there are utilities in the crawl space like water lines, heat and cooling ducts, air handlers, water heaters and well pump tanks. In the winter the open crawl space brings dryer air but also bitter cold air threatening to burst water lines, flooding the crawl space and clobbering your wallet. Gosh, does it end there? NO. The energy expense of a home on an open crawl space is far more costly than one that is conditioned. And, the discomfort of a drafty home in the winter and stuffy home in the summer make relaxing in the home difficult. Encapsulation the crawl space relieves the home from all of these problems.

Enclosing the Crawl Space

The crawl space is part of the home even if we don't want it to be. Those vents in the foundation bring in the outside air more often than they remove the crawl space air. So, it only make sense to keep the outside out from the inside of the home. There is the right way to do this and there are many, many ways to do it the wrong. Let's start with what not to do.

Don'ts

Have you ever searched the internet for a solution to why your computer is acting up and you find an article describing exactly your problem? As you read on, their solution is to delete some folder named System32? Advice like that happens in our industry too. There is so many articles written by folks that are trying to get rankings and put out content, but do not understand what they are writing about. This leads to a lot of bad misinformation on the Internet. Sometimes, it is a company just trying to be different but not really knowing how bad their advice is. And sometimes it is some guy trying to be a kung fu celebrity YouTube star. So let's go through the basic concept steps to give you a foundation for your research.

Do's

Assess the scope of work

Most crawl spaces will need the same basic improvements. The inspection should include someone actually going inside the crawl space and traveling to all four corners, visit all support piers, all foundation vents, any appliances/equipment while inspecting the floor and rim joists along the way. Take notes either by writing it down or by voice on your phone. Take lots of pictures unless you would like to visit your dungeon a few more times. This visit is also a great time to take measurements. Usually a standard tape measure will not be long enough so a digital measuring device is recommended.

Step 1 Signs of Water

Look for water marks on the wall and effervescent in the corners. If you find wet corners this is a sign of a water problem both inside the crawl and outside home. Down spouts are located at the corners of the home and generally speaking are most likely the cause of this kind of moisture in a block wall. Keep the downspouts draining a minimum of 5' from the home on a positive grade. It is highly recommended the home have a quality sump pumpsystem and drain pipe installed if there is any sign of water at all. Saving money on not installing a sump pump system will only ensure the following steps will be in vein. Remember water is a VERY important, 10 out of 10, problem to your home and must be solved completely or this will be your new part time wildly expensive hobby.

Step 2 Signs of Mold, Mildew and Fungus

Mold, mildew and fungus are not problems we want to have and if you do or are told you do, please get a second or even a third opinion from an expert not a salesmen. Salespeople sell and experts identify, assess and plan. It is unfortunate that everyone can not be trusted at face value, this is the reason a reputable expert with a great reputation is motivated to maintain that great reputation. This can be an expensive step or maybe not so bad with the correct assessment.

Step 3 Bugs

Termite tunnel on a foundation wall

Powder Post Beetle

If you find spiders and a few rolly pollies then this is normal and harmless. If you find a termite tunnel (pic to left) on your foundation or a bunch of really small pin holes made by the Powder Post Beetle(pic to right) in your floor joists then you have a problem and it's time to call a professional to treat them. Of course then you will need to repair the damage.

Hopefully you catch it before there is any real damage. Once you encapsulate the crawl space and install a dehumidifier your chances of dealing with these pests again are greatly reduced.

Encapsulate your crawl space

Protect from future standing water

The place to save money is not on the water control system or also known as a sump pump system. It will cost you much more If you wait to do it later or think you don't need it and you are wrong. The vapor barrier will need to be removed on the perimeter far enough you can dig the drain pipe in. This means you need enough room to spread and level out the dirt you dig from the trench and sump pump hole. That is a lot of dirt, trust me. You will be muddy and crawling on and around your white barrier while you install the system. Then you will have to re-tape the walls and floors together.

If there is any signs at all of water in the crawl space, install a sump pump system. Use the dirt you take out of the trench and sump basin hole to fill the low areas of your crawl space and get it as level as you can. The finished product will look really nice if you do this.

Install a vapor barrier like GuardianLiner®

Selecting a vapor barrier is a really important step. This is also not a place to save money if you want a long lasting solution. Shop around for the best encapsulation products, ask about a written warranty and get samples. If they don't offer free samples, skip them as an option because they don't offer anything you would want to buy when compared to appropriate vapor barrier. If you want cheap plastic go to the hardware store for less money than you can buy the same thing from kung fu crawl space. If you want an engineered vapor barrier designed and tested for the crawl space then look at GuardianLiner® or SilverBack®. The encapsulation installation steps can be found here

Once your crawl space is ready to be encapsulated make sure you close the foundation vents permanently. There are so many gimmick products out there to avoid, like friction fit foundation vent covers. Super easy to install and equally easy for a mouse to remove. Do this part right. You may have heard of the term "crawl space encapsulation® DIY," this simply refers to doing the encapsulation yourself versus hiring a crawl space contractor.

We also get a lot of questions about the cost of encapsulating a crawl space. This depends on a lot of different factors, but especially on the size of your crawl space. Generally speaking smaller companies will charge less to do the same work as a larger company that charges more. Workmanship is the key to the success of enclosing your crawl space. You will get a better result with great workmanship and cheap products than you will with great products and poor workmanship. The ideal situation is to get great workmanship and great products and that takes knowing how it should be done before you do it or hire someone to do it. You should also know that the cost of encapsulating your crawl space is somewhere in the neighborhood of cleaning up a bad mold problem or repairing the structure after a termite infestation. If either of these things happen to your home and god forbid they both happen you will need to encapsulate after the work to make sure it does not happen again. Or you could get ahead of the curve and spend the money to have your home protected and prevent any of that from happening.

Improvement Over A “Closed” Crawl Space

An encapsulated crawl space uses all of the features applied to a closed crawl space with a few exceptions.

To be an encapsulated crawl space the vapor barrier is continued up the foundation wall and sealed with vapor barrier tape to the floor vapor barrier. All supports, as well as plumbing that comes through the dirt and walls are also sealed. A polyurethane caulk or two sided foundation tape (like the Foundation Seal Tape™) is applied between the foundation wall and the crawl space vapor barrier to seal the moisture under the barrier. In most cases the vapor barrier that is used is made of high quality polyethylene with a polyester mesh reinforcement. Although some companies offer a clear visqueen plastic purchased from a local hardware as a solution to keep their costs down.

Controlling The Crawl Space Environment

Install a Crawl Space Dehumidifier

The purpose of crawl space encapsulation is to create an environment that can be controlled. The reason the open crawl space is so bad is because the environment is allowed to change daily, sometimes hourly. Much like building a swimming pool and refusing to full it with water because of the extra expense and time, the steps to encapsulating a crawl space should end with an environment that you are controlling with a dehumidifier. Once you have transformed the space, by way of crawl space encapsulation, into an area that is part of the house it will be cleaner and healthier for your home and family.

Encapsulation Is Needed

Maybe you have heard or read somewhere on this site that a crawl space is like a basement in many ways. Well, it is. In the function of the homes air quality and moisture penetration.

Crawl space encapsulation is essentially the same answer to a crawl space as the concrete floor in a basement. Under that concrete floor is a vapor barrier to control moisture. The concrete on the floor is for walking or use durability only. When a quality vapor barrier is used to encapsulate a crawl space it will hold up to crawl traffic and not tear like thin plastic will.

It’s "NOT" Just Plastic

Not all crawl space vapor barriers are created equal, but the truth is all will help in some way. A quality vapor barrier like the SilverBack™ brand will last for 30 years or more, while a 6 or 10 mil clear plastic from the hardware store might last 3 to 5 years. The real investment is in the time and effort it takes to do it right, so for a little bit more money up front your efforts will have a lasting result. If odor is a concern make sure the vapor barrier that is installed is made of polyethylene and not PVC. PVC liners will off gas and smell like a pool liner. If a PVC liner off gasses in the crawl space you will smell it in your home.

Radon Gas

Radon gas is a concern for all homes and all foundation types. It is a smart move to test for Radon (we offer free radon test kits with every SilverBack™ order) before having any crawl space vapor barrier installed. The SilverBack™ vapor barrier stops 98.6% of radon gas migration, but if there is a Radon gas problem there are other steps that need to be taken in order to protect your family.

If you do not properly test and investigate the proper ways to mitigate Radon gas you could make the problem much worse. A Radon gas problem is very serious and very possibly life threatening. Click here to see a US map of Radon gas concentrations

Conclusion

With an encapsulated crawl space your home and family enjoys a better indoor air quality, lower energy bills, a comfortable home and peace of mind that your home is not slowly degrading under your feet. Your home, with a healthy crawl space, will be easier to sell and will regain its full value on the home market. You might as well enjoy these benefits while you own it are living there.

Crawl Space Insulation

2015-08-11T11:50:00-05:00

Crawl Space Insulation Tips

The hot topic for the fall season is, what is the proper way to insulate a crawlspace? There are really two ways to get the most bang for your buck: one is adding insulation in the crawl space in the proper place, in the proper way and the other is to close the foundation vents that let in the outside air.

Let’s compare a crawl space to a basement for just a minute. Basements have windows, crawl spaces have foundation vents. Basements are under the home and so are crawl spaces. Most all basements have a vapor retarder under a concrete floor for comfort and moisture control and most all crawl spaces do not. Most all basements need some sort of dehumidification in order to control moisture and most all crawl spaces need some sort of dehumidification to control moisture. Because of the location in the home, basements are much cooler than the rest of the house and crawl spaces are also much coolr due to it’s location. Seems like these two spaces are very similar, just treated differently. So why do we treat them so differently?

What went wrong?

The fact is, crawl spaces hold far less value in a homes price tag. It is not considered living space and therefore it is not conditioned with the rest of the home. This simple difference is the beginning of what went wrong with crawl spaces. What if we transformed the crawl space using the same practices as a basement? Well let’s see, basement windows are closed so let’s just close the those foundation vents. Basements have moisture control in the floor system so we can install a vapor retarder on the floor of the crawl space. Basements most often need a dehumidifier so let’s add one to the crawl space. Basements are colder because of the location and no basement has insulation in the ceiling. In fact, it is code in almost every city and town in America to insulate the foundation walls of a basement prior to making it a conditioned space. What if we insulated a crawl space the same way?

Installing Crawl Space Insulation

Let’s talk about insulating the crawl space. The newest idea in crawl space insulation is to insulate between the inside and the outside of the home rather than insulating between the house in the crawl space. This follows all best practices of building envelope energy efficiency. By preventing the cold air from entering the homes envelope you can better protect your home from heat loss. Installing crawl space insulation on the foundation walls will get you the greatest result for the cost and effort, just like a basement.

With that being said, it's my recommendation that you use extruded rigid polystyrene insulation rather than spray foam polyurethane insulation. The biggest reason I recommend rigid foam over spray foam is because of the amount of moisture the insulation will absorb. Rigid foam absorbs far less moisture than spray foam does. This means, better results for a longer period of time. The Achilles’ heel of all insulation is moisture. This is why fiberglass insulation should not be used in a moist environment like an unconditioned crawl space.

Now, let’s talk about the other way to insulate your crawl space. Well maybe insulate isn’t the proper way to say it. It’s more of a preventative then it is a procedure. If you’re air-conditioning your home and you want to keep the cool air inside you wouldn’t open your windows for ventilation, you treat the air inside your home. The same is true in the opposite, if you’re heating your home you don’t open the windows and let the cold air in. When it comes to insulating a crawl space or preventing your crawl space from getting colder than you want, the most effective way, is to prevent the cold air from entering the crawl space. It is becoming well known that the crawl space foundation vents cause far more harm than they were ever meant to prevent. Closing the vents is simply not enough. The vents must be sealed in order to prevent the outside cold air from entering the crawl space. In fact, the number one thing you can do to lower your winter heating bills is to close the foundation vents.

Proper Crawl Space Insulation

Properly insulating a crawl space and properly handling the foundation vents is critical to saving hundreds of dollars a year in heating costs. Choosing the proper insulation will give you years of effective service and the best return on effort and cost. Correcting the problem with the foundation vents however, carries a much larger commitment. Your choices are: to seal your foundation vents before the winter every year and undo that work every spring OR you seal the entire crawl space permanently which will allow the foundation vents to remain closed all year. Then you can condition the crawl space and treated it as part of the house, just like a basement. It’s your house and you always have final say, but the facts are in and a conditioned crawl space is far more efficient than one that is not.

How To Install A Crawl Space Vapor Barrier

2015-07-15T22:43:00-05:00

DIY Crawl Space Encapsulation

Information on crawl space insulation can be found here- Crawl Space Insulation

Here is a straight forward step by step guide to installing a quality crawl space vapor barrier in your home. These are broad guidelines for you to follow that will apply to all crawl spaces. If you need additional guidance for more specific problems please contact us 877-379-7658. In the example below, we'll be using a 12 mil crawl space vapor barrier.

Step 1- Assess your crawl space

Before you do any work in your crawl space you should assess all areas, conditions and problems. This will help you later to know exactly what your up against.

Step 2- Lighting

You may not have thought that installing lighting in your crawl space would ever be a benefit, but if you want to solve your crawl space problems then proper lighting will be a useful aid in your efforts. Depending on the current conditions of your crawl space, I would suggest you first install temporary lighting and then wire in a permanent solution once all moisture and water problems are resolved. Here is a video about a crawl space work light you might find useful- Crawl Space Light

Step 3- Clean out and prep work

Remove everything that is not dirt or attached to the house. Most often crawl spaces are the dumping ground for building and remodeling debris, all of it must be removed to avoid problems with odor, mold and or punctures. No matter how strong the crawl space vapor barrier is, there is a possibility of punctures of sharp objects like crushed rocks, broken concrete and metal debris is not removed. IF it cannot be removed or is far to large or numerous to remove you can use a protective underlayment like the Felt550® to prevent damage to your investment.

Step 4- Measure your crawl space

You can guess at what you need to save time, but when it comes time to spend your money you will need to be accurate. To get a proper picture of what you will need for water control, a crawl space vapor barrier and a proper crawl space dehumidifier will be needed to start. You will need the following information.

the length of ALL your foundation walls
the height of ALL your foundation walls
the location of the lowest point in your crawl space
the location of your access to the crawl space
size of your access
do you have any water problems? have you ever seen ANY amount of water standing in the crawl space? are there stains on the foundation walls?
does your home have air conditioning?
does your crawl space currently have foundation vents to the outdoors?

Take this information and make a drawing of your crawl space. This drawing will aid in the planning and the execution of your crawl space project.

Step 5- Product selection

Resist the urge to make Step 5 the first step. Here's why; you should not make the crawl space fit the products, you should select the products that fix the crawl space. Certainly cost is a concern for most, but if you select a crawl space vapor barrier on price alone you will get what you pay for. Or worse, you will pay to much for a cheap product thinking it is better because a reseller calls an 8 mil thick vapor barrier a 20 Mil thick vapor barrier so their price looks CHEAP. Our recommendation assumes the reader: wants their work to last as long as possible, product quality is a concern and results are a must. Find the recommendation at this link- Vapor Barrier Selection From here it's time to get grizzly and fix that mess under your home. The final 5 installation steps are as follows...

DIY Crawl Space Liner Installation

Step 6- Tools

I am sure you already know, but I am going to say it anyway; it is so much easier, faster and cheaper to do ANY project when you have the right tools. Here are some tools to consider:

crawl space shovel
crawl space pick axe
crawl space knife
replacement blades
100' tape measure
hammer drill (not a drill with a "hammer" feature)
reciprocating saw (for plumbing work, cutting roots and buried debris)
screw drivers
hammer
wire staples
electrical cords w/GFI
Crawl Space Lights
respirator
organic mold cleaner
crawl space broom
small vacuum
Heavy workshop paper towels

Step 7- Foundation walls

This is the area that has the most fluctuation in install procedures from one company to another. I will tell you how we do it and then you will have it to compare to the many other variations. Some of the other procedures seem faster and better on paper, but do not pan out in practice. My example crawl space is going to be a rectangle, 30 feet wide 60 feet long and 4 feet 3 inches high and we will be installing 12 Mil GuardianLiner® In the procedure we recommend, you will install the walls first, but you must figure how your floors will lay before you can start. Facts:

In our example our crawl space is 30' wide.
The GuardianLiner® is 13'4" wide.
For best results, floor seam should overlap 10-12"
To cover the floor width we will need 2 pieces of GuardianLiner® with the width of 13'4" side by side
13'4 + 13'4 = 26'8" minus the 12" lap seam we can cover 25'8" of floor width with two pieces of GuardianLiner®
We have a 30' wide crawl space, we have 25'8" of crawl space vapor barrier to lay on the floor.
30' minus 25'8" leaves us 4' 4" short from covering the entire width of the floor.

Here is the reason we need to know the floor layout before we start cutting the walls- Now we know how short our floor piece is from reaching all the way across the crawl space, so we can make our wall pieces longer to cover the missing floor piece. We recommend hanging the wall pieces like wallpaper, in other words, the 13'4" width will go at the top and the bottom. This will give you many smaller pieces to handle rather than one large piece. The length of the wall section will equal the wall height (minus 3" termite inspection gap)+ floor overlap + whatever the floor piece is short.

In our example we are 5'4" short so I would tell you to split it equally on both side; you will need 2'8" + 12" floor lap on each side added to the wall piece. Our wall height is 4'3", minus 3" for the termite inspection gap and we are left with; 4' wall height+ 2'8" floor piece we are short + 12" floor lap= 7'8" wall lengths. Wall seams (between each wall piece) should be 4" to 6" over lap. This will not come out to an even number, but here is how you figure how many wall pieces you need.

Our crawl space is 30' wide and 60' long making our perimeter 180' around the crawl space. To figure the proper amount of crawl space vapor barrier to cut we will have to divid (13'4" minus 4" overlap) 13' by 180' which comes to 13.8 wall pieces. You will cut 14 wall sections 7'8" and since we left 4" for the wall over lap and there is extra you can make the wall laps wider than 4" (you have the extra material in the 14 pieces).

Make ALL your cuts outside and then bring them into the crawl space, it is much easier, faster and cleaner. Before you cut, consider this- If the floor is short by 2'8" on the sides you should make the length short by the same amount at both ends. Here's why, in a crawl space that is flat and the wall height is the same all around you can make all the wall pieces the same length (here 7'8") and not have to adjust at both ends with a shorter piece.

It does not matter what piece it comes from, the floor or the walls because you are sealing it with the seam tape. One other reason, the farther your tape seams are from the foundation wall the easier it is to tape. If you are taping 2'8" away from the foundation wall all the way around the crawl space it will be way easier for you and you can do a much better job sealing the seams. So in this example your floor pieces would be 54'6" long. That will leave a 2'8" gap on the ends that will match the 2'8" gap on the sides.

The other thing to consider before you cut is to cut both floor pieces first, then make the wall pieces from what is left. In our example, we want two floor pieces 54'6" long and each of them from one piece (no splices). This job will take three 13'4"x75' long rolls of GuardianLiner™ to complete, if done correctly. If you cut ALL the wall pieces first one of your floor halves will be in at least 2 pieces, not one. Here is how that happens, 14 wall sections 7'8" long comes to 108' of material.

You will get 9 wall pieces from one full roll and then you will need 5 wall pieces from another roll. Those 5 pieces will take 38'4" from the 75' roll. That roll is now 36'6" long and you need 54'6", so you will have to take the 20' from the other floor piece (75' long minus 54'6" = 20'4") and tape it to the end of the other floor piece to get the length right. It is not a big deal as far as function goes because you will tape the two together, but when it happens you will tell yourself you should have cut the floor pieces first.

Brush (not wire brush, just broom) the foundation wall at the top where you will be attaching the crawl space vapor barrier to remove loose dirt and spider webs. Install the Foundation Seal Tape™ along the perimeter of the foundation wall. You may need to use Poly Caulk if the foundation is very wet. Once the wall pieces are stuck to the Foundation Seal Tape and the floors have been taped to the walls you can install the Foundation Pins™. At the bottom of this article you will find videos for both Foundation Seal Tape™ and Foundation Pins™ installation.

Step 8- Floor

There is not much left to explain here. One advantage to splitting the floor width shortage of the crawl space vapor barrier to equal amounts on each side is your center seam will meet at your row of support columns so cutting around them will be much easier. Keep your vapor barrier pieces square to the crawl space and taking your shoes off will lighten the clean up work later. Here is a video on how to install a crawl space vapor barrier so you can see it in real time.

Step 9- Taping

The StIckE® Seam Tape is designed to work with the above mentioned crawl space vapor barriers and will not come loose when it comes in contact with water, this is very important because many "crawl space tapes" do just that. Take your time and remember to keep the crawl space vapor barrier square to the crawl space when you are taping

Step 10- Conditioning the air

A conditioned crawl space can be accomplished a few different ways, the important part is to DO IT. Conditioning a crawl space is THE reason the crawl space needed to be encapsulated, so don't skip this part to save money. Would you buy a pool and not fill it with water because it was not included in the price or it would make the cost of the pool less expensive if you left it out? Conditioning can be done with a quality crawl space dehumidifier or by using your existing air conditioning unit. Both options have their strengths. The best way to know which is best for your home is to get a moisture management plan for your crawl space. You can read more about a conditioned crawl space here- Conditioned Crawl Space

Install Videos

How to Install a Vapor Barrier with wall Insulation

2026-02-07T21:13:00-06:00

To get the most out of the SilverBack™ vapor barrier and foundation insulation, be sure to install both correctly. This diagram shows how to install them in your crawl space.

Click this link to learn more about crawl space insulation.

By installing the crawl space vapor barrier over the insulation you will prevent holes in the vapor barrier from securing the rigid foam to the wall. It goes without saying that the holes would not be a good thing.

The rigid foam will not absorb moisture. However, please be aware that spray foam is not the same as rigid foam. The spray on version will absorb moisture and that moisture will lower its R value.

Lean more about crawl space encapsulation and get familiar with everything you need. Crawl Space Repair has a number of different resources to help you. Every step of the process is important. Your DIY crawl space project is not as difficult as you think when you have the right resources.

Crawl Space Moisture, Condensation and Humidity Problems

2025-10-07T21:41:00-05:00

Creating a conditioned crawl space® or an encapsulated crawl space greatly improves the air quality in your home.

Years ago before nearly every home had air conditioning, homeowners opened the windows for fresh air which reduced these symptoms. A home is designed to "breathe" moving air toward the roof and out the roof vents. Would it surprise you to know that nearly 40% of the air in your first floor living area comes from the crawl space? The air from the crawl space is pulled into the living area by this natural vacuum then it either exits out the open windows or it continues toward the roof as the warm air rises. As this air escapes through the roof, it pulls more air from the crawl space and the cycle continues.

The other way that crawl space air enters the living area is through the heat/air conditioning ductwork. Each time the furnace comes on the air in the crawl space is pulled into these ducts (which are most often in the crawl space) and taken throughout the home. The moving air in the ducts create a vacuum at the seams which pulls the contaminated air from the crawl space and mixes it with the warmed/cooled air, then delivers it to every room in the home. If you don't have a forced air heating system, the percentage drops.

Moisture

The exposed dirt floor emits moisture into the air, this is compounded by the high summer humidity that is delivered via the crawl space foundation vents and gaps in the rim joist and sill plate. Research has shown that water vapor in the air is exchanged simultaneously between the outside air and the crawl space. In other words the moisture in the air outside your crawl space will equal the moisture in the air inside your crawl space at all times regardless of whether the metal vents are open or closed. The vapor barrier stops the moisture from entering the crawl space from the ground, thus allowing you to eliminate the foundation vents, while the insulation greatly reduces moisture penetration at the rim joist and sill plate. These are the first steps in providing your home with a healthy conditioned crawl space®.

Humidity

High humidity creates many problems for your home. Wood boring insects like the powder post beetle, the termite and the carpenter ant need high moisture to survive and reproduce. Condensation, which is caused by high humidity and extreme temperature changes can do major damage to the homes joists and wood beams. Mold, fungus, and bacteria also need high humidity to survive and reproduce under your home. As reported by the EPA these condition cause or worsen allergy problems, asthma, respiratory problems and sinus infections.

The Solution

A proper conditioned crawl space includes three major components; SilverBack™ vapor barrier which is a polyethylene moisture barrier. If needed, a quality sump pump kit with drain tile around the inside perimeter for water control and a dehumidifier or adding the crawl space to the heating/cooling system of the home which controls the remaining moisture that leaks in from the sill plate and rim joist. This crawl space encapsulation® addresses all of the problems associated with a crawl space, from moisture to Mold and from insects to structure rot, these problems will be a thing of the past.

The process we use also offers more than the eye can see, literally. As a result of installing our system (at no extra charge or effort) there are many other conditions that are addressed and resolved. For example, the sump basin we use has a completely sealed lid and is certified for Radon control. What this means is if you have a Radon problem or are concerned about Radon our solution helps eliminates this issue.

Our vapor barrier is also an air/gas barrier and it is used in the Asbestos and Mold abatement industry. If professionals in the field of hazardous material count on its performance than you can too.

Another example of additional performance is the savings on your energy costs, which is one of the main reasons the old building code was modified to allow a conditioned crawl space. Even though it may seem more costly to condition the crawl space it is actually the opposite. By closing the vents and insulation the rim joist we are keeping out the cold and/or moist air that absorbs the conditioned air you pay for each month.

When the crawl space is properly conditioned it will pass any inspection. The end result is clean air with no source of contamination coming from the conditioned crawl space. This added to the value of the positive side effects leaves your home healthy, efficient and more comfortable.

5 Personal Benefits of Installing a Crawl Space Vapor Barrier in Your Home

2023-04-19T07:25:45-05:00

Many people are unaware of the many benefits of installing a crawl space vapor barrier in their home. This feature can help improve indoor air quality, prevent moisture buildup, and even reduce the risk of mold and mildew growth. Below are five personal benefits you can experience by installing a crawl space vapor barrier:

1. Improved Indoor Air Quality: Crawl space vapor barriers are designed to prevent excess moisture from entering your home, helping reduce the risk of molds or pest growth. This can significantly improve indoor air quality by helping to reduce allergy and respiratory issues.

2. Enhanced Energy Efficiency:The thicker, more durable vapor barriers can help reduce heat loss in colder months and reduce temperature fluctuations inside the home. This can help improve energy efficiency and lower energy bills.

3. Protection Against Moisture Damage: A high-quality vapor barrier can help prevent moisture damage to your property such as rotted wood, electrical issues, and water stains. Moisture can compromise the safety and structural integrity of your home if not addressed.

4. Increased Home Value: If you ever decide to sell your home, an installation of crawl space vapor barrier is an added feature to increasing the home's overall value. Prospective homeowners would be encouraged to know that the home is protected from rising moisture levels.

5. Satisfying Peace of Mind: With the implementation of a crawl space vapor barrier, there is a sense of peace of mind knowing that you have taken the necessary measures to protect your home from moisture problems.

My Crawl Space Encapsulation® Experience

2018-06-25T17:29:00-05:00

Author/Installer Gary Gilstrap
May 19, 2018

When I bought our retirement home in the north Georgia mountains 5 years ago I knew it had a dirt basement (aka crawl space) with no vapor barrier. Well, there were some random pieces of plastic sheeting here and there and even some carpet remnants rolled out, but that was it. I wasn’t too worried about it because the building inspector I used told me that it was the cleanest and driest crawlspace he had ever seen. Although he advised me to have a vapor barrier put down sometime, it wasn’t a priority to me based on his earlier comment.After all, the house was almost 30 years old and there were no problems down there.

A couple of years ago we decided to have an addition to the house. The addition had an unfinished cement floor basement.Totally separate from the other basement. Sometime after the addition was finished I was down in the crawl space changing a water filter and I noticed a pretty large area where the dirt was darker than the other areas.It looked as if it was damp. A few months later I noticed some mold starting to grow on the floor joists above that area. Something had changed and it is my thinking that grading for the new construction and trenches dug for new utility lines had changed the below grade water flow enough to create this new problem. Regardless of the reason something needed to be done.

I had the mold tested and it was not the dangerous type.I had it removed and the area treated and I started looking into vapor barriers. I watched videos by at least 10 companies and individuals on vapor barriers. After looking at the videos I decided that encapsulation was the way to go. The first quote I got from a industry professional - over $10,000.This was for a crawl space of 1875 sq ft. The second quote - similar. Next option - back to youTube.

I’m a pretty good Do-it-yourselfer. I have renovated a couple of homes and even had a Handyman business taking on small projects for a couple of years after I retired, so I decided I was going to do this thing myself. Next step was to decide what materials to use. My internet search led me to Crawl Space Repair. I was impressed with their products, prices, and helpful videos. I calculated how much material I would need and priced it. Wow, a lot more than the stuff they carry at my local home stores, but I wanted something super tough that would last and I wouldn’t have to worry about in my lifetime. I also wanted to be able to use the area for storage and be able to walk on without worry. The total cost for everything I would need was a little less than $1700, but the sure beats $10,000. And free shipping too!

I opted for the 20 mil Silverback® for the floor area and 12 mil GuardianLiner® for the walls. Seam tape, foundation seal tape and foundation pins finished the order. I was pleasantly surprised when 2 days after I placed the order with Crawl Space Repair the UPS truck pulled up with everything I had ordered.

The first step of my new job was to prepare the crawl space by sealing all of the outside foundation vents and leveling out the floor area. Being in the mountains my home was built on a slope and the crawl space reflected that. In fact, to call it a crawl space feels like an untruth because I can stand up straight in three fourths of it. In what I call the short corner the distance from the dirt to floor joist is 30 inches, but in the opposite corner the distance from dirt to floor joist is 10 feet. There were trenches around the perimeter where the footings were dug.Some places two feet deep. There were big humps and holes everywhere. Also, because of the slope, level areas were dug out with paths to the furnace, water pressure tank and other paths where needed creating steps and pit areas.I used a pick mattock and square point shovel to do the digging. This was the hardest part because the dirt was very hard and, well, it’s just manual labor.I worked 2 to 3 hours each day for about 5 days to complete smoothing and squaring off the areas I needed to.Now it was time to start putting the vapor barrier in place.

The videos at crawlspacerepair.com were extremely helpful. As they suggest, I started with the walls. I ordered both 32 inch and 44 inch wall vapor barrier because of the low height in the “short corner” and the higher walls in the rest of the crawl space. I wanted to leave 10-12 inches turned out at the bottom to allow a good overlap with the flooring materials. As suggested, I rolled out and cut the pieces I needed outside of the basement in my carport. This allowed me plenty of open work area and kept the materials clean. I used a laser measuring tape which was a lot easier than single handedly fighting a tape measure over long distances. I installed the double sided foundation seal tape in each section as I was working along. The adhesive on this double sided tape is extremely sticky.Once it sticks to your fingers it is hard to let go of.To make sure the adhesive was properly seated on the block walls I used a J roller that I had from a previous project. The J roller provides greater pressure than you can with just your hand.Some of the vapor barrier wall pieces were pretty long and hard to wrestle with by myself, but by pulling the kraft paper backing to expose the foundation seal tape’s outer side as I went along the walls it went well. I suppose I could have used shorter pieces and overlapped and taped them, but I like the idea of a continuous membrane as much as possible. Next came the foundation pins.A hammer drill with a 1/4 inch masonry bit every 2 feet or so was easy work in concrete block, and tapping in the pins really made the vapor barrier feel permanent on the wall.I went around after finishing the pins with a broom and swept away the dust from the drilling that fell onto the turned out piece at the floor.

I thought the flooring pieces would be harder to handle than the wall pieces, but they were not. I looked, studied and figured which would be the best ways to roll pieces out to get maximum coverage with the fewest pieces and encounter the fewest obstacles. After cutting the pieces to length outside (you’ll need some heavy duty scissors for the 20 mil.) and bringing them into the basement they went down very easily.I only needed help with one piece that was 35 feet long. (Be aware that 20 mil reinforced vapor barrier has some weight to it. As with the long wall pieces, I could have used smaller pieces and overlapped and taped them, but as with the wall pieces, I liked having one continuous piece.) Taping along the edges went very smoothly with the seam tape. The seam tape from Crawl Space Repair is the stickiest and strongest tape I’ve ever used.It was a little tricky cutting and piecing around the stepped and pit areas, but the seam tape made it easy. The best part was rolling out each piece and opening up the fold to reveal all of that clean white vapor barrier. I worked from the farthest areas towards the door in order not to track dirt onto the vapor barrier. Putting shoes on and off was a bit of trouble but it was worth it to have the clean room effect in the end. Wrapping a few support pillars was all that remained and I was through.

Before I put down the flooring material I left a hygrometer in the crawl space overnight. The humidity level was 73% the next morning.I did the same the first night after I completed the encapsulation. The humidity level was 62% the next morning. An immediate result of 11% reduction in humidity.I’m now working with my HVAC person to open up some vents and returns on my air conditioning system down there now to create a conditioned space. That should further reduce the humidity and keep the air circulating.

Regarding my estimates for ordering materials. When laying the flooring I was about 8 feet short of the 20 mil flooring material roll. I used leftover wall material, double layers, to complete the floor area and when I had finished the job I had less that 3 feet of the 33 inch material left. I was short about 6 feet of seam tape to complete sealing the floor pieces of the last pillar wrap, and I was 4 foundation pins short. I had rather have been over by these amounts, but I was pretty close on my calculations.

Next step, I’m going to use the $8,000+ I saved by doing this myself to take my wife on a cruise this fall.

South East Virginia

2017-05-03T14:56:00-05:00

Author:Blake Jenkins
BayCrawlspace.com
Office: 757-460-0444

A Snapshot of Crawl Space Repair in South-Eastern Virginia

Virginia consists of a diverse landscape from the beaches to the farm lands to the mountains. In Hampton Roads, Virginia though, we enjoy a flat topography with a high water table and rare freezing conditions so most homes are built on crawl spaces.

As the matured cities of the area (Virginia Beach, Norfolk, Chesapeake, Newport News, Hampton, Suffolk, Williamsburg, Portsmouth) have continued to age, which were built around the largest naval presence in the United States, so have the homes. Our summers are humid and the crawl spaces get quite wet. Many times after a big rain, homeowners will find a flooded crawl space. We find mold, wood rot, moisture damage, structural problems, settlement, etc. every day due to crawl space moisture.

Wild opinions vary widely from foundation repair companies, pest-control companies, and their jack-of-all-trades counterparts about the proper crawl space solutions for homeowners. As a dedicated, highly experienced, and certified crawl space repair professional, I’m here to offer what I see as a valuable insight into the proper steps to take for residents of my home town with crawl space problems.

Option A: Inspect the Crawl Space Yourself

There’s no better way to get a sense of the severity of a problem than by performing the crawl space inspection yourself. If you can handle your own crawl space inspection, you’re less likely to be intimidated by a pushy sales person with photos of a disastrous nasty crawl space. Most crawl spaces are not that terrible.

Here’s what you should buy to prepare for your crawl space inspection… one headlight, one protective suit, gloves, a wood moisture meter, a flat head screwdriver, and a face mask if you experience any respiratory problems.

Crawl through the entire crawl space and inspect for the following… fungus or mold growing, standing water, water marks on the wall, water marks on piers, if the crawl space is below grade, cracked or split wood, compression of joists or beams, wood moisture content (which varies depending on time of year… 20%+ is high), your estimated percentage of ground covered by the vapor barrier, if the vapor barrier is staked to the ground, rotten wood, rodent activity, and anything else that might seem unusual.

If you would like to learn more about what we do when we find water in a crawl space, you can visit … http://www.baycrawlspace.com/s...

If you would like to learn more about our crawl space encapsulation method to manage moisture, you can visit … http://www.baycrawlspace.com/s...

If you would like to learn more of our thoughts on crawl space vapor barriers, visit… http://www.baycrawlspace.com/s...

You may decide that the D-I-Y approach to crawl space repair is right for you. If so, allow the nice folks at CrawlSpaceRepair.com to lend a hand. They have been very professional and responsive with our continued business relationship.

Option B: Get a Professional Opinion (or 3) and Hire a Contractor If Needed

It’s always good practice to have a few reputable companies investigate to provide recommendations… Here are a few things to look for:

-Photos Shown During Inspection. Today, this is the standard for crawl space professionals. Do not trust the doom and gloom sales pitch of an inspector with no photos.
-Online Reviews. This is the modern-day version of word of mouth and is extremely telling.
-Contractors Licenses. It is always best to hire a fully licensed and insured contractor that specializes specifically in crawl space repair. In-house installs are always a big benefit!
-Long-Term Relationship with the BBB. The Better Business Bureau is the best resource to check the long-term history of a company’s ability to keep their promises, which can be useful.
-Quality of Products. Specifically regarding the polyethylene vapor barrier, there are massive differences in qualities available on the market. If you’re looking for a long-term install, do not go with a cheap looking or feeling vapor barrier. We have installed 12-mil Guardian Liner vapor barrier for both encapsulations and regular vapor barrier installs with great success.
-Warranty Claims. Many warranties are fluff. Look for explicit language that protects you as the customer.
-Volume of Advertising. Big companies have big overhead and tend to charge big prices especially if they are a part of a franchise type organization.
-A Positive Gut Feeling. After you have done your due diligence, understand the issues, and understand the benefits, I recommend choosing whomever you would sleep well having chosen.

At Bay Crawlspace Solutions of Virginia Beach, VA, we pride ourselves in providing consistently top quality installs at very reasonable prices. Our reputation is built on solid ground!

Blake Jenkins
www.BayCrawlspace.com
Office: 757-460-0444

What Crawl Space Vapor Barrier Thickness Do You Need?

2016-02-07T21:54:00-06:00

This is a very common question and it really depends on what is going to happen after you encapsulate your crawl space. Most people want nothing to do with the crawl space and are only going to go down there to do home maintenance. For those customers our selection of 12 Mil vapor barriers is perfect for them. It is an all around durable product that will allow for some light storage and superior moisture protection. All of our vapor barriers have a polyester reinforcement mesh. This makes the vapor barrier much stronger and confines any punctures.

The 8 Mil Pure Guardian® is a great product when there is limited head height or for use on the crawl space walls. Since the crawl space walls require very little durability from the vapor barrier it can be used to offset the cost of a thicker, stronger one. Even though this is the smallest Mil available by CrawlSpaceRepair.com it is still no wimp.

If the crawl space has a lot of rough ground, stones, heavy foot traffic or storage is desired then the 20 Mil SilverBack® is the one you want. It is the the strongest and has the most reinforcement in it. The 20 Mil has two layers of polyester reinforcement and three layers of virgin polyethylene.

The ground should be free from sharp objects with all of our crawl space vapor barriers to insure a long service life.

Protection for your floor

For those crawl spaces that have too many stones or starp objects and just can not be removed, take a look at our . The Felt550® was designed to protect your crawl space liner from your crawl space floor.

Your Crawl Space - Getting The Right Answers

2016-02-07T21:39:00-06:00

Chances are this is not the first article about crawl spaces you have read. There is a lot of articles on the web about how to fix a crawl space. Problem is, a good share of these articles are not written by someone that has actually done any research or even fixed a crawl space. They read an article about crawl spaces and then write their own version adding in what they have been told is the right way. This has caused the water to get really muddy. Some of this is due to the complexity of the subject.

There are many different factors that come into play when fixing a crawl space. What is right for one home might not be right for another. The location, age, size, symptoms and budget all affect the right answer. Some companies will try to sell everything and anything that has to do with a crawl space whether the home needs it or not. If the salesman doesn’t know what you need then selling you all of it should take care of the problem.

This is called ignorance, incompetence and/or sleazy sales practices. Some salesmen will even show a certificate that they were trained and are qualified to inspect a crawl space. Most likely, they were trained to sell the companies products. There is a big difference, but you will never know if you don’t ask good questions.

If you want to fix your crawl space, you need to encapsulate your crawl space. This involves sealing the crawl space off from the moisture outside. It's a term more homeowners are getting to know, but it's still relatively new.

Now, back to business. Soon, you get the "pitch."

So, how do you know when the good advice ends and the sales pitch starts? The only way you will be able to know the answer to this question is to educate yourself about crawl spaces, which is not as easy as it sounds. Even if you had a good idea what you want, by the time you research it on the internet you will most likely need to take a nap to clear your head.

One article will tell you to put in more foundation vents and the next article will say not to put in more vents but to use their “patented power vent” system at $500 or $1000 crazy each. Yet another article will tell you to close all of your foundation vents and another will say all of those other articles are messed up, you should open the vents in the summer and close them in the winter. So by this time the only thing you have learned is how much time it takes to get completely confused and frustrated.

The next subject that needs to be explored is the crawl space vapor barrier or “retarder”. During this search you find an article that says use 6 Mil plastic and another one says use 10 Mil barrier. Then there is a website that sells a “non woven material”, what the @#!# is that? But wait there’s more:)), another says 20 Mil and another says 12 Mil and yet another says 14 Mil. You'll also likely come across a bunch of content about the cost of vapor barriers too.

The underlying message in all these articles- Our vapor barrier is the best and will do the job the best and there is nothing like it on earth:)). Of course, a bit of an over exaggeration but it will certainly leave you with that impression. Then the final blow, “this is a job that should be left to the professionals”. What? As if!:))

The companies that make this statement are a bit pissed that no one wants to pay their high price. So the only way they can justify the cost is to tell the OWNER OF THE HOME your not qualified to fix your own crawl space. The only people that need to be “qualified” are the ones that don’t own the home, that is why they have to be qualified. Here is an example- to pull an electrical permit one need to be either: the owner of the home or a licensed electrician. In order to get a license they have to qualify. :))

Okay, I’m getting off topic, by this point you are either having fun with trying to get the answers to your questions or you’re at the kitchen table trying to gouge your eye out with a dirty fork:D. To make it worse, IF you are up to continuing your search you will also find companies that try to gain credibility with you by using a blog. The blog looks full and has many entries and comments. It seems these guys are the ones that others look to. But wait! The entries (and comments) were copied and pasted from other websites like Yahoo Answers.

The company that sells the “non woven material” actually went out and started 6 or 7 blogs and then searched the internet for questions and answers about crawl spaces. He apparently found a gold mine at Yahoo Answers and felt who would even know. After he copied and pasted the other site’s information as his own he then proceeded to link these blogs back to his site that sells his “non woven material”. That is like faking testimonials|-|. You may have to scroll down on the poser’s blog to find the bogus entries. This is pretty easy to discover, and I recommend finding out if the owner of a blog really knows what he is talking about before you follow the advice. Here is a way to validate the blog:

1. Copy a full sentence from the blog entry
2. Paste in the search bar, Yahoo works better because it will show all entries that match exactly, Google will only show the entry it thinks is the right one and take the other out of the search results
3. Look through all search results, I highly doubt Yahoo Answers would steal from a small blog

My advice is to trust your gut, you will know the right answer when you see (hear) it. Keep looking and don’t rush into any sales pitches. If you feel like you were dazzled then you probably were. The flashier the presentation the more it is meant to distract you. The honest guys will want to help you, without pressure. Remember, if you hear – “Besides the price (cost) is there any reason you wouldn’t ……today?” you’re being pitched, be careful.

Crawl Space Moisture Problems- An Email From Brian

2016-02-07T21:26:00-06:00

Matt,

I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you so much for your website. It is extremely informative and helpful to the DIYer like myself–I’ve read every single page you have on your site. I have a fairly serious moisture problem in my crawlspace at my home in Virginia Beach. My washer machine plumbing had a small leak that I didn’t notice for many months. This has led to some pretty nasty mold growth under the crawlspace. I crawled down to check it last week and while I’m fairly certain it's structurally sound the things growing down there are horrid.

I also noticed while I was down there that I have had significant pooling of rain/ground water near the front of my house. I had every intention of buying your products and doing the vapor barrier/sump/dehumidifier install myself, however after looking at my situation closely, I don’t think you could pay me enough to do it. I only have about 18 inches of height and 24 individual pilings that would need wrapped. Not gonna happen. So I called a well respected local company, JES basement systems. All they do is crawlspaces and basements.

They use the Clean Space line of products mentioned in some of the emails you posted on your website. I have a little over 1200 sq ft of crawspace (their estimate, which includes the walls and pilings), they will also install the 57 linear feet of drain piping, connected to the smart sump and also includes the sani dry dehumidifier. Total for the Cleanspace install. with removal of some debris, was $5k, drain piping and sump was another $2k or so, the Everseal crawspace door was $400, then another $1500 for the crawlspace dehumidifier. All total it was just over $9k but they gave me a military discount which reduced it to $8510. I drank the Kool-ade and signed the contract to have them do it. It comes with a transferrable 25yr warranty on the cleanspace–maybe a gimmick, but this is a well respected local company and I believe they will stand by it.

I do have a couple of concerns, however, that I hope you can shed some light on. I asked them about cleaning the mold and they said once the humidity drops (mine is currently around 75%) to below 50%, the mold will die. This is fine, but can the dead spores still “infect” my living space? Does your company do anything to kill/remove the mold growth prior to install of the vapor barrier?

Second, once the vapor barrier is installed, it seems to me that the concrete blocks of the perimeteter wall and pilings would be subject to increased moisture levels. What is the long term effect on them? I may have a much improved crawl space, but if my house collapses, its all moot. Is this a valid concern or am I worrying about nothing?

Thank You,

Brian *****

Response-

Brian,

Thanks for the email! And thanks for the compliment, we work very hard to make good information available.

I want to get your questions answered first. The mold will not just die if the humidity goes below 50%, it will go dormant waiting for the moisture to return. The health effects, whatever they are with the type of mold you have, is still there and yes it will still infect your home. This is going to need to be dealt with.

Yes, the foundation walls will be subject to increased moisture levels, but the concrete is suited to handle that environment. Think about the footing of the home, it is buried in the ground with moisture on nearly all sides and piers that hold up bridges over rivers are under water. The foundation will not be harmed while exposed to the moisture. This said, it is important that there is no “moving” water passing through the foundation. Did the basement systems dealer give an outside water management plan (grade, gutters etc.)? If they did then make sure you put that in motion before they install the Clean Space.

I have heard about JES, mostly that they are expensive, and I have looked them up on the BBB. They have only one complaint; a warranty issue oddly enough. I respect that you are comfortable with them and that is important. I do however, have a concern with some of the things they are selling you. You said you have 1200 sq ft but they are only putting in 57 feet of drain tile; why are they not going all the way around the foundation? Other basement systems dealers do not charge for up to 100' of drain tile when you buy the cleanspace and a sump pump together.

The smart pump is a “mini basin” (here is a pic and sales pitch -) sump pump system. It comes with a Zoeller M-53 pump which is very good, we use the same one, but it is put into a shortened basin which will cause the sump motor to short cycle. In other words there will not be enough water in the basin for the pump to run a full pumping cycle. This shortens the life of the pump because of the quick on and quick off pumping. They probably did not tell you (it will be in your warranty after the job is done and paid for) that the pump motor is not covered by them and has a 1 yr manufacture warranty against manufactures defects, not cycle burn out. This is a case of you getting what is easy for them, meaning the height of the crawl space is too small to easily put in a regular basin (which we do on every job), instead of earning their $2000.

My point is, their warranty will only be good provided the pump has power and is working properly. If the crawl space floods and it is because the pump failed then it is not covered by warranty. Sneaky huh? Another concern is when the pump fails the drain in the top of the smart pump will allow water to freely enter the crawl space. The basement systems dealers promote this drain as a good thing, but it works both ways. The ping pong ball that sits over the opening allows water to enter the basin by floating away from the actual opening. This design will also allow water to past back up into the crawl if and when the pump fails. Besides this being an obvious problem, the water will bring with it dirt and mud from under the Clean Space making the clean up a much larger job.

You also stated that the crawl is only 18? high, their santa-dri dehumidifier is 19? high-( Crawl Space Dehumidifier Comparison ) and it concerns me that it may not fit and if they can get it to fit; will it be located properly to do the an effective job?

Brian, I am not trying to talk you out of working with this company, I just think you should know some problems you will be faced with after you pay your $8500. It is possible that when you call them they will come out with no problem and fix the issue but for $8500 it should work without issue and I think that is what you are expecting, as you should.

I am glad to hear you received a discount because you are/were in the military. That shows great respect which you have rightly earned. I think you should also know, I talk to people all over the country and it seems very common for the basement systems dealers to give discounts. Some of the more common are: senior, single parent, first time home buyer, and “I like you, let me call my manager”. If you would have held out they would have come down even more, that is the game.

If you are still within your right to cancel the contract I would suggest you do that and renegotiate the scope of work for the price you are paying. Get a full perimeter drain system with a full size sump basin (they sell those too), get exact details on where the dehumidifier will be located and how it will drain ( it needs to be located in the center of the crawl). Ask to see the warranty that you will receive and get the details that concern you changed and written on a separate “non-service agreement” form. Note that on the back of your contract it will state something to the effect – “There is no warranty of merchantability or warranty that contractor’s services will be fit for a particular purpose or any other warranty under this service contract other than expressly stated in the separated, written warranty”. This means, if you ask or they offer to hand write on the contract any modifications to the “separate warranty” it will be void. They (the franchise) has spent a lot of time making sure they have the upper hand in the contract, this is your chance (if not to late) to make your own modifications to insure you get what the salesmen promised.

I hope I have not dashed your hopes of a successful transaction. I do, however, want you to get what you expect and get your money’s worth.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help,

Crawl Space Moisture, an email from a customer

2016-02-07T20:56:00-06:00

Hi,

My crawl space is moist, i.e., the air is damp and the foundation walls show signs of wetness. A mold inspector has not found mold and the subfloor is dry. I am planning to dry out the crawl space and I have a few questions regarding your product and the various approaches that I’ve read about:
1. I’ve come to your site via ‘Ask the Builder’ where you or one of your colleagues pointed to the Crawl Space Vapor Barrier product. (Very nice site, btw.) In the article, Tim Carter (author of ‘Ask the Builder’ column) referred to high performance polyethylene. Can you tell me what the advantage of the Crawl Space Vapor Barrier over the high performance polyethylene is? I’m not planning to use the crawl space for storage.
2. Based on what I read, the best practice indicates that one should close the crawl space vents and to seal the crawl space. But given that moisture will still be underneath the vapor barrier, will this not lead to wet foundation walls and wet studs underneath the vapor barrier?
3. I’ve read about two alternative approaches to dry out the crawl space:
a)use a crawl space dehumidifier
b) open up a HVAC duct and an air return to dry and warm the crawl space through conditioned air.
– Is option (b) the cheaper solution that is recommended for less moist crawl spaces. Is option (a) recommended for severe cases? We live in Maryland (West of DC), so it gets humid in the Summer, but it’s not as wet as in the Eastern Shore.
– Does option (b) require insulation of the foundation walls, while option
(a) does not?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

****** (customer asked to remove his name)

Response-

Thanks for the email!

1.The big difference in vapor barriers is whether it is made of virgin polyethylene resin and if it has a polyester reinforcement, which all of ours do. Our vapor barriers are considered high performance. I believe the confusion is in the lingo.

2.It is true that moisture will be trapped under the vapor barrier, that is what we want. Currently the moisture is not trapped so it is allowed into the crawl space. The moisture against the foundation walls will not damage the concrete. Think of it this way, the outside of the block is (most of the
time) under grade and exposed to a much harsher environment. If you have wood studs in the crawl space they should never be under the barrier. All wood, including the sill plate should be left exposed to the crawl space.

3. I am assuming you are asking about after the crawl space is sealed up. I personally see a greater advantage in adding the conditioned air to the crawl space over a dehumidifier, provided you live in the home year round.

If this is a vacation home the a dehumidifier is probably better suited to care for the crawl space when you are gone. Of the two the cost effective option is the conditioned air. Professionally, it is my opinion that you will need to add a mechanical means of air flow in the crawl space once you close the vents. However, personally I recommend sealing the crawl space and then monitor the humidity and temperature before making a final decision on what it best for you home concerning air flow in the crawl space.

There are remote hydrometers you can purchase to collect this information without getting into the crawl space every day. The subject of crawl space insulation can be quit complicate and in my opinion it will take a conversation between both of us in order for me to best guide you. As a set answer I would direct you to your local building code or energy code for guidance. I say this because without all the information I do not what to steer you in the wrong direction.

I hope this helps!

Crawl Space Drains- What if I have a leak?

2016-02-07T20:48:00-06:00

What if I have a leak from a pipe after I have my crawl space encapsulated? I will have a swimming pool under my house, should I have some kind of drain installed in the vapor barrier?

This question usually arises after meeting with a franchise company that sells a drain for their vapor barrier system. The product pitch is designed to settle a fear of what if my crawl space gets water in it from a frozen pipe or broken water line. The drain is designed with a ping pong ball under a drain cover that will float when water enters the drain. Once the water is gone the ball then returns to cover the opening leaving the homeowner with the understanding that they will have to do nothing for clean up. Pretty ingenious if you only look at the pro’s of the design.

So lets take a look at the con’s to better determine if a drain in the vapor barrier is a good idea. The same mechanism that allows water to enter the drain, the ping pong ball, will also allow the water to enter your crawl space from under the vapor barrier. If the power goes out and your sump pump is temporary not pumping water and the water backs up, then the ping pong ball will float and allow water to get on the barrier. In this scenario the water will be dirty allowing mud to settle and making the clean up a much bigger job.

Another major flaw in this design is what if the drain is on the west end of the crawl space and you have a leak at the east end? Unless the drains are placed throughout the crawl space under each bath, kitchen and laundry it is not likely the water wouldn’t go into the drain in the first place. In order to fix this ‘what if’ it causes more compromises in the barrier and in many different locations.

Beyond these two problems, if the crawl space is sealed properly the threat of frozen water lines is very unlikely. Frozen water lines is a condition of an sump pump system not a closed or conditioned one. Which is what you would be paying for, so why the back up plan? Moreover, the chances of a power outage happening during a heavy rain storm is far more likely. This situation causes the threat of water entering the crawl space, while the sump pump system is down, and then making the chances of water entering through the drain a real problem. This problem is probably one of the reasons you were talking to them in the first place. In my opinion, the sales pitch diverts the focus of the real threat to a “what if” situation to build confidence in a product line. Know this, sales pitches are designed to really accomplish one thing- psychological dominance. To present, convince and close the sale. The drain is not the focus of the pitch it is an example of setting a fear and presenting a solution to build confidence in the system.

So what do you do if a pipe breaks or the washer over flows? I say handle it “IF” it happens. By cutting a small slice in your crawl space vapor barrier to allow the majority of water to drain into the drain system or under the barrier. By doing it this way you can drain the water where the water is and not have to push it to a fixed drain. Then once the water is gone and you have mopped up the last puddle, tape the slice with the same tape used to seal your lap seams. This gets you as good as new and the option to simply remove the tape “IF” it happens again. This process handles any real problems not just the threat and it does not cause any new ones.

Radon Test Kit

2016-02-07T20:41:00-06:00

Radon Test Kit

Test for Radon Gas, the second leading cause of lung cancer.
You can not see, smell or taste Radon Gas. This test kit will help you determine if you have a Radon Gas Problem. Lab results, and shipping are included.

Just because your "neighbors don't have it" does not mean your home does not. It more likely means your neighbors have not tested for it. It is a simple test and you can get it for free..

Add this product to your cart at no cost as long as you purchase one of our vapor barriers in the same order.

Features:

Free Shipping
Free online results
Free if purchased with any of our vapor barriers

Here's where to get it

Crawl Space Soil Gas

2016-02-07T20:30:00-06:00

Additional Information on the cat pee smell in the crawl space.

Crawl space encapsulation® is gaining ground in popularity across the United States and Canada. Even with its new popularity some people have shown caution by waiting to see if this new technology really works before investing into the thousands of dollars it takes to complete this home improvement. The good news is most of the bumps have been ironed out. We have yet to find a way to stop price gouging and contractors installing it improperly, but everything else is improving.

One of the bumps that has been fixed, most recently, is a mystery odor that appears after the encapsulation, somewhere between 30 to 60 days after. It was a mystery for obvious reasons, the encapsulation was suppose to stop the odor problems. So when it turned out that it seemed to create a new one, well customers nationwide were a bit more than upset. This problem first hit my desk in the spring of 2009 and the call was coming from Memphis TN. One of our contractors there was having a problem with an odor in a crawl space he encapsulated with the SilverBack® brand vapor barrier. This house was a new home and the new owners were not accepting this odor.

Here’s what happened-

I get a call from Walter complaining that our SilverBack® vapor barrier seemed to be causing an odor. He said it was hard to describe the smell, kind of like cat pee, it was terrible. My first reaction was the SilverBack® vapor barrier is completely inert and there is no off gassing or smell to the plastic. Walter was quick to accept this explanation as he also believed it was not coming from the SilverBack®. As I understand, Walter relayed this information back to the contractor that built the house and they continued their attempt to figure out this problem.

I heard nothing more until October of 2009 when Walter called again, this time with much more frustration. As it turns out the contractor required him to remove the 20 Mil SilverBack® (because he was convinced that was causing the odor) and install a 6 Mil clear plastic from the local hardware store. Within days of installing the 6 Mil, the odor was far worse than before and the contractor had Walter remove it. Believe it or not, the contractor then had Walter install the 20 Mil SilverBack® again. With the second install the odor receded to the original complaint level which in turn caused Walter’s second phone call to me. At this point Walter, the contractor and the homeowner were desperate for a solution.

Upon further investigation I found out this was a new house but built on an old foundation. To be more exact, the foundation was a basement but the home’s contractor filled it in to make a crawl space. I know, I don’t get it either. Once I found this out I quizzed Walter on where the dirt came from. Of course he didn’t know but he was off to find out.

Walter called me a few days later with information, the contractor would not tell him where the dirt came from. To make a long story short, after several attempts at trying to find out where the dirt came from, I made a reasonable guess that it was not acquired through standard channels. My guess was that it came from a farm or a field somewhere. Since I knew the odor was not coming from the barrier and there was no fiberglass insulation in the crawl space, it seemed it could be coming from only one area; under the SilverBack®. It also seemed the dirt was the odd man out in this situation by being the unknown.

The Solution-

If it was coming from under the barrier then I thought maybe it was a gas like methane. I told Walter to mitigate the air under the barrier as if the crawl space had a Radon Gas problem. He and I both understood this was not Radon because Radon does not have an odor, but the process would remove any soil gas that was under there causing an odor. After a quick run down on how to set up the piping and a collection point he was off to put it place.

I called Walter after about a week to find out the outcome of my theory. Turns out the odor was gone the day following his installation of the mitigation system. Ahh, music to my ears.

Good story, but is that enough to call it a solution to every mystery odor found in a crawl space? I think not.

In the fall of 2010 I received a phone call from another SilverBack® installer complaining of the same thing, also from TN but from Knoxville this time. Gary had three “stinky” crawl spaces with three upset customers. It seemed he tried everything, but taking out the SilverBack® to remedy these problems. I told him the story about Walter and that he should try the same solution.

At about the same time I got two more phone calls about this problem, both from North Carolina. One of them was yet another installer out of Greensboro and the other was an customer of Moisture Loc in Charlotte. The installer had five “stinky” crawl spaces and his customers were complaining that they could not sleep at night the smell was so bad. The homeowner had everyone from indoor air quality professionals to HVAC contractors to the company that installed the barrier at his house trying to figure out where the smell was coming from.

Like Walter and Gary, I told Greg (the contractor from Greensboro) and Bill the homeowner from Charlotte the story about Walter and that they should use the same method to fix their problem. Gary, Greg and Bill each did and it solved their problem as well. That’s 10 crawl spaces with 100% success, now I’m thinking it’s the solution to every mystery odor in a crawl space. *Note- not all “vapor barriers” sold for crawl space encapsulation are odor free; even additives can cause off gas odors. It is very important to know what products are being installed in your home. Ask for the SilverBack® brand crawl space vapor barrier by name, it's guaranteed not to cause odor.

If you have any questions on how this process is done please feel free to contact us at 248.960.8870 or on the web Crawl Space Repair

Soil Gas Mitigation Fan

2016-02-07T20:16:00-06:00

Has a 5 year warranty!
The soil gas mitigation fan is used to evacuate soil gases like Radon, Methane and other harmful gases emitted from the soil. It comes with 3" collars so it can be used with our Sump Pump Kit™ and Sump Pump Basin. Mitigating soil gases is very important to the health of everyone living in the home.Most soil gases cause a very unpleasant odor even after encapsulation, but Radon does not have an odor and is deadly. Read more about Radon Gas from the EPA.

This fan will also help to control moisture in the crawl space by removing it from under the barrier. This method makes a small impact on the overall moisture, but is a positive byproduct of its use for soil gas mitigation.

Features:

In Stock!
5 Year Warranty
Easy Install

Product Details & Pricing

12 Mil GuardianLiner®

2016-02-07T19:50:00-06:00

This crawl space liner is American Made. It is a string reinforced polyethylene vapor barrier that is white on one side and cream on the back. The GuardianLiner® has a minimal amount of anti-microbial added to help enhance it’s natural ability to resists mold growth, does not off gas or have any VOC’s.

Facts about this product-

Roll size 13’4" x 75'- that’s 1000 Sq Ft for each roll
Made in the USA
In stock ships next day or sooner
Made from virgin polyethylene resi
Bright white face and a cream back
Shipping is included in the retail price!
Heavy construction for light to medium storage

Product Details & Pricing

Felt550® Protection for Crawl Space Plastic

2016-02-07T19:16:00-06:00

Crawl Space Vapor Barrier Underlayment

Felt550® is available in two sizes; 5' x 50' & 5' x 100'

Felt550® was designed to protect the crawl space vapor barrier and other crawl space liners from punctures due to sharp rocks, concrete and metal in the crawl space. We highly recommend removing these items before encapsulating your crawl space, but that may not always be possible. Here’s an example- Let’s say someone in the past tried to fix a standing water problem in the crawl space. And, instead of doing it right they went to the local gravel pit and bought 10 yards of stone to put in the crawl space. The cheapest stone that day was crushed rock, which has very sharp edges. So with good intentions and terrible problem solving skills the crushed rock found its way into the crawl space (for the record that will not fix a standing water problem). So now the owner of the crawl space learns about SilverBack™ and wants to fix it for good. Instead of hauling all of the stone out of the crawl space you can install the Felt550® onto the crushed rock and then install the SilverBack® to control the moisture.

So what else does the Felt550® do besides protect your investment in the SilverBack® vapor barrier?

Crawl spaces are harsh environments and with that comes considerations in air quality. One of the most serious is Radon Gas, because it is a killer. The Felt550® plays an important roll in Radon Gas Mitigation. The Felt550® creates an air gap between the crawl space vapor barrier and the soil, enhancing the results of the active Radon fan(s). Allowing the fans(s) to keep a negative pressure on all parts of the crawl space floor and eliminating any “pockets” that seep the gas into the space.

Mitigating other soil gasses that cause odor. As we continue to do research on the best ways to fix the problems with air quality, energy loss and moisture levels we discover new problems and their solution. One of those new problems is soil gas odor(other than Radon Gas). Like with Radon Gas the Felt550® enhances the results of the fan to mitigate the odor.

Product Details & Pricing

WaterProof Seam Tape™
Product Spotlight

2016-02-07T19:01:00-06:00

This product, when installed correctly, will give you a water proof seal at the seams. In very wet conditions it is recommended to use the Foundation Seal Tape™ under the seam to give an extra layer of protection. This tape is the perfect thickness for this application allowing proper flexibility without sacrificing strength. This is the exact crawl space tape you want for encapsulating your crawl space.

The Waterproof Seam Tape™ uses a pressure sensitive adhesive that achieves 100% strength in 15 minutes at 70 degrees F. “Cheaper” tapes are known to release when they come in contact with moisture leaving your crawl space exposed. Because other tapes are white does not make them the same.

*This product is Field Tested and the only tape we warranty on our installs.

If you save $5 on a roll of tape and it fails, did you save $5?

Crawl Space Tape Pricing

Product Introduction-

Taping Advice-

Foundation Seal Tape™

2016-02-07T16:52:00-06:00

Foundation Seal Tape (FST) is used to seal the XMas Tree Fasteners to the foundation wall. When installed to a dry, clean (the concrete must be brushed off to remove loose debris) foundation wall the bond is good enough to hold the SilverBack™ to the wall temporarily (several hours/days) until the XMas Tree Fasteners are installed. If the foundation wall is wet in the area it will be installed and it will not bond then a polyurethane caulk must be used. This tape is 1.5" x 108' and has a reinforcement inside the tape to eliminate stretching like bubble gum. This is important because without the reinforcement this tape is impossible to apply in a crawl space. Most all other tapes on the market, similar to this one, do not have the reinforcement.

The FST™ is in stock and ships immediately.

**We always recommend getting a few tubes of Poly Caulk to make sure you have enough material to get a good seal to the foundation and to handle any damp areas on the foundation walls.

Remember when you figure your FST to include going under beam pockets, ductwork that is touching the foundation walls and the access door.

Product Details & Pricing

Foundation Pins™

2016-02-07T16:32:00-06:00

The Foundation Pins™ are used to permanently secure the vapor barrier and ALL other liners to the foundation wall. These pins are inserted into a 1/4" hole drilled by a hammer drill. They are to be installed every two foot and are made of heavy gauge white plastic.

These pins come in packs of 100 & 1000 pieces and are required for a lasting bond to the foundation wall. The heads of these pins will not break off nor will the pin come out of the hole as with other pins on the market.

**Remember to figure enough pins for 1 every 2' and 2 in each corner(one for each wall about 2" out of the corner). It is not necessary to install Foundation Pins in concrete supports (piers), although it won't hurt anything either.

Product Details & Pricing

Product Introduction Video-

InstaDry® Sump Kit™

2016-02-07T16:21:00-06:00

This sump pump kit includes the Liberty 237 sump pump, with a 3 year warranty, and the Radon approved sump basin.

The sump is plumbed to, and includes, the check valve. It has a 3" vent hole in the lid for venting Radon gas and crawl space odors outdoors and a 1 1/2" water discharge. Ready to install per the manufacture requirements. This basin is 18" wide and 17" deep capable of holding 15 gallons of water allowing the Liberty 237 to pump a full cycle of water without causing premature wear. This basin also incorporates our “Anti-Float” plate design mounted on the bottom of the basin to prevent hydrostatic water pressure from pushing the basin out of the ground in high water table areas. Don’t rely on the the “short” basin design offered by others to deliver reliable performance. The short sump pit design can cause short cycling of the sump pump which will result in shortening the life of the motor.

*3" stub and cap to plug the soil gas mitigation hole is sold separately

Features:

ALL parts are Made In America, including the clamps
Anti float plate keeps the basin in the ground not matter how much water pressure there is
Has 3" hole in lid to mitigate soil gasses such as Radon and Methane
Includes plumbing up to check valve
1/3 HP Liberty 237, pumps up to 45 gallons of water a minute
3 Year Manufactures Pump Warranty

Product Details & Pricing

Water Control Video-

Crawl Space Sump Basin

2016-02-07T16:10:00-06:00

This sump pit is designed to be used as a collection point for Radon gas as well as house the Liberty 237 sump pump. It has a 3" vent hole in the lid for venting Radon gas and odors outdoors and a 1 1/2" water discharge.

The basin is 17" deep by 18" wide and has pre-drilled weep holes in the sides for optimum water management. This sump pit must be set in the ground with 2-3" of pea stone surrounding it for water filtration. This item includes basin, lid and seals.

This sump pit is capable of holding 15 gallons of water allowing the Liberty 237 to pump a full cycle of water without causing premature wear or short cycling. This basin also incorporates the “Anti-Float” plate design mounted on the bottom of the basin to prevent hydrostatic water pressure from pushing the basin out of the ground in high water table areas.

Don’t rely on the the “short” basin design offered by others to deliver reliable performance. The short basin design can cause short cycling of the sump pump which will result in shortening the life of the motor.15 Gal Radon Sump Pump Basin W/Anti-Float Plate. Includes Lid and Seals –

Features:

Anti float plate to keep the basin in the ground
Must be installed with Pea stone or similar, 4"-6" thick around the basin
Predrilled weep holes in the sides to control hydrostatic pressure
Lid has 3? hole for soil gas mitigation
Comes with all seals and lid bolts

Product Details & Pricing

Liberty Sump Pump

2016-02-07T16:03:00-06:00

This crawl space sump pump is a 1/3 HP submersible pump. It carries a 3 year manufacture warranty and is capable of pumping 45 GPM. Very dependable and highly rated among professionals.

Liberty Pumps is a family owned business, their products are made in America and they stay connected to their customers. Because they are family owned, they care about their reputation and their name, this the major reasons CrawlSpaceRepair.com chose the Liberty 237 to be in our InstaDry® Sump Kits.

This sump pump is also available with at 25' power cord for a little extra reach.

Product Details & Pricing

Crawl Space Repair & Encapsulation

Cat Pee Smell In The Crawl Space

The cause of the odor

Crawl Space Encapsulation® and Your Home

Encapsulation and the impact on your home.

The open crawl space environment

Enclosing the Crawl Space

Don'ts

Do's

Assess the scope of work

Step 1 Signs of Water

Step 2 Signs of Mold, Mildew and Fungus

Step 3 Bugs

Encapsulate your crawl space

Protect from future standing water

Install a vapor barrier like GuardianLiner®

Improvement Over A “Closed” Crawl Space

Controlling The Crawl Space Environment

Encapsulation Is Needed

It’s "NOT" Just Plastic

Radon Gas

Conclusion

Crawl Space Insulation

Crawl Space Insulation Tips

What went wrong?

Installing Crawl Space Insulation

Proper Crawl Space Insulation

How To Install A Crawl Space Vapor Barrier

DIY Crawl Space Encapsulation

Step 1- Assess your crawl space

Step 2- Lighting

Step 3- Clean out and prep work

Step 4- Measure your crawl space

Step 5- Product selection

DIY Crawl Space Liner Installation

Step 6- Tools

Step 7- Foundation walls

Step 8- Floor

Step 9- Taping

Step 10- Conditioning the air

Install Videos

How to Install a Vapor Barrier with wall Insulation

Crawl Space Moisture, Condensation and Humidity Problems

Moisture

Humidity

The Solution

5 Personal Benefits of Installing a Crawl Space Vapor Barrier in Your Home

My Crawl Space Encapsulation® Experience

South East Virginia

What Crawl Space Vapor Barrier Thickness Do You Need?

Protection for your floor

Your Crawl Space - Getting The Right Answers

Crawl Space Moisture Problems- An Email From Brian

Response-

Crawl Space Moisture, an email from a customer

Response-

Crawl Space Drains- What if I have a leak?

Radon Test Kit

Crawl Space Soil Gas

Soil Gas Mitigation Fan

12 Mil GuardianLiner®

Felt550® Protection for Crawl Space Plastic

Crawl Space Vapor Barrier Underlayment

Felt550® is available in two sizes; 5' x 50' & 5' x 100'

So what else does the Felt550® do besides protect your investment in the SilverBack® vapor barrier?

WaterProof Seam Tape™Product Spotlight

Product Introduction-

Taping Advice-

Foundation Seal Tape™

Foundation Pins™

Product Introduction Video-

InstaDry® Sump Kit™

Water Control Video-

Crawl Space Sump Basin

Liberty Sump Pump

WaterProof Seam Tape™
Product Spotlight